My Surfer Dude...

12.10.2013

 ^^^seriously, how cute is he?!^^^
^^^all the birds tried to get me!^^^
 ^^^bad ass surfer chick^^^
 ^^^one of the birds^^^
 ^^^he's up!^^^
^^^so proud!^^^

Over the long Thanksgiving weekend, I finally woke up early enough to join hubs down at the beach while he surfed. I have to admit, he had to sell it to me pretty hard seeing as I'm not a morning person, it had been a pretty cold weekend, and I don't surf. But I hadn't been out to see him since we first moved here you see... and he had gotten so much better... and I could play around with the new camera and take pictures of him so... While those were all pretty good reasons, it was his determination (what I really mean is relentlessness) that did me in. He was proud and wanted to show me, wanted me to be proud too. I'm not going to lie and say I wasn't grumpy that morning, because I was. Nor was I looking forward to the three mile cycle down to the beach before my morning coffee or any food. And the unexpected obstacle course with fellow garbage men and their trucks through me for a loop because they were the only ones up and taking over the back alleys. But once we got there... once I sat on my slightly damp towel and took it all in... my soul was just refreshed and none of that previous stuff mattered anymore. My grumpiness and morning frown were washed away we the sea air and it felt good to be up that early. The beach was at it's quietest and there were so few people out (mainly surfers) that the beach felt like it was my own personal haven. Of course I did slip out to the seediest of bars to order what turned out to be the best egg and cheese sandwich ever! And to my surprise, there were people in the bar and yes, they were drinking that early. I had one of those moments where I was really, really thankful... for the salt air filling my lungs, the feeling of sand between my toes, the delicious coffee slowly making its way through my body and warming me while also awakening me at the same time. I felt like I was seeing everything for the first time and man on man was the sight just breathtaking! The tide was low and had created this mirror like turf on the sand that reflected such rich shades of blue, making it impossible to tell where the sky ended or the sea began or which way was up or which way was down.

I was mesmerized and then I saw him, standing proud with his surfboard in tow and I had to hold back tears of pride (I have been all over the emotional spectrum lately) because I knew, the real reason I was down there on a chilly early morning could be none other than for him. And it was because of him that I was exposed to all this beauty and finally opening my eyes to where we had been calling home for over eight months (EIGHT MONTHS!) and counting. Oh and hubs did look like a surfer alright, with sun kissed locks and squinty blue eyes... he definitely looked at home in his wet suit, paddling out to conquer the waves. This boy, now man of mine... see the thing is he absolutely hates waking up... at any hour. And yea sure, I kind of laughed when he claimed he would be waking up extra early on the weekends and even before work to be able to surf once we relocated. While I didn't doubt he would to begin with, I doubted it would last. If there is anything hubs loves more than me, that would be sleep. But believe it or not, surfing can sometimes trump sleep for him which is out of this world big! He says it brings him a sense of clarity and focus like nothing else. It wakes him up, but like really wakes him up. It's what has helped make LA feel more like home for him and I just realized in typing all this, surfing in LA does what running in London did for me so I get it. It makes him feel connected to something bigger than himself, bigger than us. Maybe one day I'll be brave enough to face the ocean with him (I need to learn to swim first and that's a whole different story!) but for now I'll just sit and marvel from the shore, doing what I do best with a camera in hand and a different perspective to see life with. Who knows, I may even fall back into love with running and let it help ground me again.

-Cannon EOS &D, Canon EF28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens, Photoshop

***Today I am thankful for my brave hubs, he really does inspire every single day***

2 COMMENTS:

  1. This is so beautiful, it made my heart hurt (in a good way). You have such a lovely way with words as well as images :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Melissa! This really means a lot to me since I usually find it hard to express my feelings in other ways. Words on the cyber web or pictures just allows me to be freer :) -jb.

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